The 2022 Estate Chardonnay is nutty and svelte, with white peach, pastry, apricot kernel, brine and even a hint of malt biscuit through the finish. The wine has breadth and girth to it; it's not at all compact, but it's tight in texture. So, all things being equal, it's an exciting Chardonnay. This is from six different sites in the Kumeu area, with wine aging on lees in 20% new oak (just about all François Frères) for approximately 11 months. Everything goes 100% malolactic fermentation, wild primary ferment, and malolactic fermentation is a mixture of inoculation and wild. From 2024, they will not be inoculating malolactic fermentation, as "the wild yeasts seem to be the most reliable," explains Michael Brajkovich. Lovely acid. 13% alcohol, sealed under screw cap. Erin Larkin, Robert Parker Wine Advocate

The 2022 Chardonnay Estate is calm, its shoulders are down and its almost succulent in its personality as it makes it debut in your mouth. The acidity is gentle, particularly when compared with the nervosity of 2021. There's a fine textural character that could well be tannin that keeps this giving and leaves you licking your lips. Flavors of nectarine, clove and vanilla-like oak notes make for a rather festive finish (20% new oak). The nectarine infused length persists making this one that'll slip down easily over the next 3-5 years at the very least. Rebecca Gibb MW, Vinous

Region: Auckland, New Zealand

Grape Varietal: 100% Chardonnay

Critic Rating: Robert Parker Wine Advocate 93 Points, Vinous 91 Points

Suggested Drink Window: 2023 - 2033